48 hours in Marrakech - the sober edition
by Eleanor Martin
So you have 48 hours to spare and a thirst for adventure? For an affordable yet exotic getaway, you can't beat a few days soaking in the soul of Marrakech. A mere three hour flight from London, yet worlds away, the Moroccan city has everything you need for a booze-free break. Forget the all-inclusive resort and sterile tourist traps. This is your guide to experiencing the real Marrakech as a man of substance, someone who appreciates culture, a good meal, and a bit of a story to tell.
Day 1: The Labyrinth and the Oasis
Morning: Immersion in the Medina
Start your day early, before the midday sun and the crowds by diving into the bustling heart of the city: the souks. Souk Semmarine is the main thoroughfare, but the real gems are found as you venture deeper. Embrace getting lost, it’s part of the fun. This is a place to hone your haggling skills, a negotiation that’s less about saving money and more about a cultural exchange. Pick up a finely-crafted leather bag, ceramics or a hand-woven rug to bring a piece of Morocco home with you.
Lunch: A Rooftop Escape
As the heat rises, retreat to a terrace for a well-deserved lunch. We loved Le Salama - enjoy a traditional tagine or a refreshing salad in a serene, plant-filled setting, a peaceful break from the vibrant chaos below (pst... on the downlow, they also serve alcohol if you’re already gasping for a drink).
Afternoon: Hammam and Tranquillity
The afternoon is for a ritualistic cleansing and relaxation. A traditional Moroccan hammam is a non-negotiable experience. Try Hamman Ziani for a spa experience you'll never forget. It’s a centuries-old social activity and an authentic way to unwind. Afterward, take a taxi – or a horse-drawn carriage - to the Jardin Majorelle, a botanical garden designed by Yves St. Laurent, with vibrant cobalt-blue structures and exotic plants, offering a cool respite from the madness of the medina.
Evening: Sunset & Sensory overload
As dusk falls, make your way to a restaurant terrace overlooking the main square, Jemaa el-Fna – we recommend Café de la Place. Although you won't be able to enjoy a cold beer or glass of wine, listening to the call to prayer echoing across the city as the sky turns a fiery orange is a moment of pure magic. And “Moroccan whiskey” (mint tea) is the perfect accompaniment. For dinner, brave the stalls in the square that serve traditional fare cooked to order - think chicken skewers, pastilla (a local pastry traditionally made with pigeon), fresh calamari and kebabs.
Day 2: Speed and Splendor
Morning: Desert Thrills
Book a half-day quad biking tour through the Agafay Desert. It’s rugged, raw, and just 45 minutes from the city. Ride through rocky terrain and Berber villages, then pause for tea in a desert camp.
Lunch: Al Fresco people watching
We loved the food at Kech Badi, a perfect spot for people watching, and handily located near both Bahia and El Badi Palaces for a bit of culture. Or if you fancy something a bit more upmarket, Kosybar offers traditional fare with views to die for. (plus an alcohol licence)
Afternoon: Sights and Sounds
With your energy restored, it's time for more exploration. Visit Bahia Palace, a stunning example of Moroccan craftsmanship with beautiful courtyards and intricate carvings. El Badi Palace is impressive in a different way – its vast courtyard and resident storks are worth a visit.
Evening: Night tour
For your final night, book a night tour of the medina to hear tales of sultans and spice traders, and let the city’s magic linger a little longer. Here, all roads (or should I say alleys) lead back to Jemaa el-Fna Square. It’s mad, but you just have to embrace the sensory overload. You will see snake charmers, monkeys, Berber musicians, and people trying to sell you everything from knock off sunglasses to traditional herbal remedies.
Tips for the Modern Traveler
Dress Code: Women should dress conservatively if they want to blend in and not attract any unwanted attention. While more relaxed for men, it’s best to err on the side of modesty. Lightweight linen shirts and trousers are comfortable and respectful.
Cash is King: While many hotels and upscale restaurants take cards, cash is essential for the souks and smaller vendors. Have plenty of Moroccan dirhams on hand.
Haggle with a Smile: Bartering is a way of life. Be friendly, firm, and never accept the first price. It’s a game, so play it with a good-natured spirit.
Stay in a Riad: For an authentic experience, book a traditional riad in the medina. It's an intimate, beautiful way to stay in the city, and many have private pools for cooling off.
We stayed at the sublime yet surprisingly affordable Riad Orange (https://riad-orange.com/). Traditional yet stylish, and just steps away from the hustle and bustle of the souks, the gorgeous rooftop terrace is a tranquil paradise with the added bonus of a rooftop pool, the rooms are air-conditioned and the staff are top notch.
If you’re on a really tight budget, check out the stunning Central House Hostel – worlds away from the hostels of your nightmares, its courtyard pool, clean white design and central location make it a winner in our book
