THE SUIT’S NOT DEAD — YOU JUST FORGOT HOW TO WEAR IT
- By Oriona Robb, Style Consultant
A few weeks ago, I stood in front of a client, mid-40s, successful, sharp, as he checked himself out in the mirror. We’d just eased him into a navy flannel two-piece from Thom Sweeney. He turned to me, slightly stunned, and said:
“Why do I feel like I’ve just remembered who I am?”
That’s the thing about tailoring. It’s not just about fabric or fit. It’s about feeling. A well-cut jacket doesn’t just sit on your shoulders, it straightens your spine, sharpens your edge, and reminds you who’s boss.
The Gentleman’s Armour
Somewhere along the way, between Zoom calls in boxers and the rise of the hoodie-wearing billionaire, we stopped dressing with intent. Suddenly, looking put-together was seen as trying too hard.
But here’s the truth, there’s quiet power in a jacket that fits. It’s not about being stiff or overly formal. It’s about showing up with presence. Like you actually give a damn.
The suit’s not dead. It’s just waiting for its comeback tour. And no, not as a uniform. As a statement. As your silent wingman. (The kind that doesn’t drink all your whiskey or overshare at dinner.)
From Uniform to Identity
When I work with clients, I’m not trying to make them look like they walked off a runway. The goal is simple, to help them meet the best version of themselves. Tailoring does that. It’s like therapy, but with lapels.
There’s a quote I love:
“When a man wears something that fits him perfectly, he meets himself differently in the mirror.”
No truer words.
There’s that moment, shoulder aligned, sleeve just right, lapel lying clean , when a guy sees himself and thinks, “Damn. Okay. There I am.”
(And sometimes, that’s the first time in years he’s actually liked what he saw. Imagine that: all it took was a proper jacket.)
Redefining Smart Casual (Without Looking Like You Tried Too Hard)
These days, most men live in the grey area between formal and off-duty. The challenge? How to land somewhere that says “I’m relaxed” without looking like you got dressed in the dark.
Here’s where tailoring steps in. It’s not about being dressed up, it’s about being well-dressed.
Picture this:
A deep olive unstructured blazer over a fine merino knit. Navy trousers that actually fit. A soft-shouldered jacket from Dunhill, a suede loafer. Maybe - maybe - a silk pocket square if you’re feeling cheeky.
It’s not try-hard. It’s just intentional.
Smart casual isn’t a lack of effort; it’s the art of effortlessness.
Why Most Men Settle (and Why They Shouldn’t)
I hear it all the time:
“I don’t have the body for tailoring.”
“It’s not really me.”
Translation? “I’ve never worn anything that actually fits.”
We’ve been sold the idea that if something doesn’t work off the rack, the problem is you. Rubbish. The problem is the rack.
Tailoring isn’t about squeezing into a mould, it’s about shaping the mould to you. Whether you’re broad-shouldered, long-limbed, barrel-chested, or built like a rugby player in retiremen, the right tailor will make it work. Every time.
And no, your tailor won’t judge you if you’ve skipped leg day. Promise.
Style Isn’t Performance. It’s Alignment.
Wearing something that fits doesn’t mean you’re trying to be someone else. It means you’re finally showing up as you, just with a better silhouette and no saggy knees.
I think of Marcus, a tech founder I work with. Lives in trainers, detests ties. He had a wedding coming up. We went with a soft ivory linen jacket, crisp shirt, navy trousers, and penny loafers. No fuss. No stress. Just elevated.
He texted me later:
“I didn’t feel overdressed. I felt like I’d remembered who I am.”
Exactly, Marcus. That’s the point.
Your Jacket Is Your Wingman
If you take one thing away from this column: bring back the jacket.
You don’t need a three-piece. You don’t even need a full suit. Just one solid blazer, midweight wool, navy or charcoal, lightly structured. Pair it with jeans, chinos, a tee, a fine knit. Trust me, it’ll go everywhere, meetings, dinner, date night, the school run.
It frames you. It says something before you even open your mouth. And it doesn’t scream, it whispers, “This guy’s got it together.”
And let’s be honest, a proper jacket hides a multitude of sins. (Hungover? Tired? Forgot to iron your shirt? The blazer’s got your back.)
Why I’m Writing This
This monthly column isn’t about trends or fashion rules. It’s about reviving your relationship with your wardrobe. Quality over quantity. Presence over pretense. Clothes with character. Style with soul.
Each month, I’ll be diving into the little things that make a big difference, the details that elevate, the pieces that last, and the mindset shifts that help you show up with more intention (and less effort).
Because real style doesn’t shout. It just lands.
The Gentle Rebellion
In a world that’s made it optional to care about how you look, there’s something quietly rebellious about a man who chooses to show up well.
Not for applause.
Not for attention.
But because he respects himself enough to care.
So, to the guy who’s wondering if tailoring still belongs in his life, yes. Yes, it does.
Not because you need to be noticed.
But because, my friend, you deserve to be seen.
Introducing me
Over the next few months, I’ll be getting to know you, your habits, your hang-ups, and hopefully your jacket size. But for now, let me properly introduce myself.
I’m Oriona Robb, a style consultant for men & women who value craftsmanship, confidence, and timeless elegance and who understand that a great outfit isn’t about showing off, it’s about showing up.
I work with clients across London, Dubai, and Monaco to fine-tune their wardrobes and rediscover their personal style, one perfectly cut jacket (and occasionally a strong espresso) at a time.
Because when you dress like the man you know you are, the world tends to agree.
